Alice on the River

It was a simple enough request: Alice, run this postcard over and drop it in the mail box. I pulled the car over; Alice jumped out, and ran across sleepy Broadway in downtown Tivoli. It was around 10 on a Friday morning. We were off to kayak on the river, a first outing for her, both in a kayak and on the Hudson. She turned, looked right instead of left to cross the street—Alice has been studying in London for the past two years—and stepped in front of an oncoming pick up truck. I will ruin the suspense by saying she’s fine. The pick up wasn’t that close, wasn’t moving that fast. Alice sprinted across the street—she’s young and agile. But I will say that, four days later, I’m still shaken.

Alice is my niece, my only niece. She’s twenty years old, a beautiful young woman who loves her friends and family, is completely bilingual (French-English), is first in her law class at King’s College, shops too actively, plays a wicked game of O Hell, and for the past week of vacation had been calling me “la Suse,” and singing “Delta Dawn, what’s that flower you have on?” (go on, listen to it!) inspired from watching reruns of Friends. That moment on the street reminded me how fragile all of this is, and it was with this keen awareness that we made our way toward the river.

It was a sunny day, with a bit of breeze. The tide was going out. The river, a half mile wide at this point, felt enormous. The Catskill Mountains on the far shore looked hazy and far away. I sensed Alice a bit nervous about this adventure. We put the boats in the water, and I straddled hers, steadying it as she slipped in with flexible ease, reminding me she spent years perfecting gymnastic moves. I explained how to hold her paddles, to keep her elbows low, to press her knees against the pads to steady her boat and to help guide it through the water. Most of these moves come naturally to someone in a boat, but a few pointers make for an easier paddle.

I have taken many people onto the river. I consider it one of the most beautiful things to do in a beautiful area. Being on the river, low in a boat, paddlers experience things they would not if they stayed on shore: the great blue heron taking flight, it’s long legs trailing behind its massive wings; the slap of a fish leaping from the water; the musky smell of river water. On the water, the sky expands, as if you can see to infinity. There’s hope on the river, and plenty of room to drift and dream.

Still, I’m always a bit tenuous taking out new paddlers, but this time I was silently cataloging all of the many things that might go wrong. “We’ll stay near the shoreline and head south,” I said. In this section of the river, the channel used by the large freight boats and barges run close to the eastern shore. I wanted to stay far clear of them. But truth was, it was an empty river, not a boat in sight. We shoved south, with the wind at our back pushing us along.

“Are you ok?” I asked, once we had settled into our journey.

“I’m worried about going over,” Alice said.

“Don’t, you’ll fall out of your boat and the life vest will pop you to the surface,” I explained.

“I won’t get stuck?”

I remembered my own worry when I first started paddling. What if I went over, and couldn’t extract myself from my boat? So I spent a lot of time ensuring I did not go over. And then I took a terrific paddling class with Atlantic Kayak Tours during which we were required to dump. This is like asking a rock climber to fall. I took a big breath, rocked back and forth, and fell into the water. The body knows how to survive. I reached for the toggle of the spray skirt, pulled, dropped out of my boat and was back to the surface in seconds. I can’t say it was fun, but I knew that I could survive going over. The fear of not knowing was over and I paddled with a new confidence.

As we approached the underpass to the North Tivoli Bay, I could see the outgoing current running strong.

“OK, let’s set up to make it under the bridge,” I said. We pointed into the current, paddled strong. But the current grabbed the bow of Alice’s boat and pushed her to the side, into me, into the supporting wall.

“Let’s try again,” I said, as we floated back out with the current. “Really lean into the right side of your boat, push with your knee,” I coached.

Alice took off, all determination, leaning, stroking.

I cheered as she floated into the serene wide bay.

Arriving in the bay is like turning off a switch, cutting off both wind and current.  Alice settled into the seat of the kayak and smiled. We meandered through the spatterdock, emerging with the outgoing tide, through the cattails and the phragmites. I noted that a beaver lodge had been dismantled (by whom?), and we saw a snapping turtle sunning on a log. It slid into the water as we approached. I heard marsh wren, swamp sparrows, hundreds of red winged black birds.

“You want me to tell you what the birds are?” I asked.

“No,” she said and I smiled.

We wound our way home, passing two young women working for the DEC. They wore waders, and wide-brimmed hats.

“We caught a pumpkinseed,” the one reported, smiling.

I stroked over and admired the fish. “Come look, Alice,” I called.

“I can’t turn,” she called back cheerfully.

Our return was peaceful under a full noon sun.  Alice took the lead as I daydreamed, my worries calmed by Alice’s strength on the water. There are dangers to kayaking on the Hudson but most of those dangers can be avoided. And the pleasures, like the sky, are infinite. We loaded our boats, a bit hungry but happy.

“That was fun,” Alice proclaimed, “if a bit scary.”

The only thing that went wrong on our paddle is the next day Alice when reported sore shoulders.

My Reach: Unacceptable

My friend John Lipscomb is the captain of R. Ian Fletcher, the Riverkeeper patrol boat. I’ve known him since I was a child as our parents were friends and so I know that water—the rivers and oceans--are in his blood; he’s lived on the Hudson for most of his life. I know few people as passionate about the environmental issues facing the Hudson as John—closing Indian Point, shutting down the shad fishing industry so that the fish can swim free, and clean water.

Clean water. Several times a year John makes the journey north to sample water quality in the river.  He tests the water for salinity, chlorophyll, turbidity and oxygen levels. But what is most important is he tests the enterococcus levels—yes, the levels of raw sewage in the river.

John then posts this information online. This ongoing study is fascinating to read to see how certain locations rate over time. Lucky for me, one of the sites is my reach off of Tivoli. So I know that for all of 2010 our water was acceptable, and I took that as a given. But the most recent set of water samples shows that the water quality in my reach is unacceptable.

(This is a photo of John on his boat--note the focus; he misses little on the river!).

This is from John’s most recent Riverkeeper member email: “Our May patrol was rainy, wet and nasty. It rained between 1.2 and 2.5 inches during and before our patrol (with local heavy rain every day as we worked north) and, as a result, we found more unacceptable water quality than ever before. Not one sample site north of Poughkeepsie was acceptable. This is stunning.”

It is stunning. John attributes this to sewage systems overloading during heavy rains. The solution: build better sewage treatment plants or repair old and broken systems.

Where this pollution comes from in my reach is troubling. If it is sewage from Tivoli, then that means that it has traveled from the Stony Kill into the North Tivoli Bay and then to the river. Perhaps with the incoming tide that raw sewage floats north. But the idea of that raw sewage entering the bay—a slice of marshland isolated from the river—makes me sad. There, snapping turtles, bitterns and rails make their lives. They deserve better than this.

To get my kayak in the water I wade in, the cool water slapping my calf muscles. Sometimes after an evening paddle, when it is hot and still, I like to beach my boat, then swim out into the river to cool off. That is what I almost did last night after a late paddle to the Saugerties Lighthouse. But something held me back and now I’m grateful I simply packed my boat up and headed home. Still, I’d like to be able to go for an after paddle swim, and to know that the waters I swim in are clean. It’s little and yet a lot to ask. But we do have to ask. One way is to support John in his work.

My Reach

 As I slid my kayak into the Hudson River last Wednesday evening, the water grabbed my ankles. My calf muscles seized with the cold.  I tuc ked into my boat and settled into the seat of my kayak. I then strapped the sprayskirt tight, before dipping my paddle into the spring-brown water. This was my first time in my kayak on the river this season, a late start for many reasons, but mainly due to our over-rainy spring. I was eager to scout about the section of river off of Tivoli that I think of as my reach.

A reach is a stretch of navigable river, often the distance the eye can scan. On the Hudson there are a range of reaches, most with direct names like the Barrytown Reach or the North Germantown Reach. Some have names that have existed since when Henry Hudson sailed up the river in 1609 like the Long Reach off of Poughkeepsie. When Ed Abbey claims the desert in Desert Solitaire as his own, “Abbey Land,” it is because he is the only one there and because he loves it. I too make my claim out of love, but I can’t claim I am the only one on the river. I share my reach with many—many who no doubt imagine that this is their reach as well.

Because I see this as my reach, when I paddle about I note changes, good and bad: new graffiti on the abandoned dock; the for sale sign down on the blue-roofed house at the end of the jetty (who gets to live there?!); more debris like sticks and logs in the water from all of the rain. And because I call it mine, I pick up the plastic water bottle bobbing in the water, and wonder how the herring run was this year.

The Saugerties Lighthouse pulled me north and across the river. I scanned for boats as I crossed the choppy channel mid-river. Motor boats were out on this rare clear day, but I did not spy any barges or tankers. At the lighthouse, I slid onto the sandy beach on the north side, and pulled out of my boat. In just a short time—the half hour it took me to cross—my lower back already had a pleasant tightness. As I wandered the beach and onto the path that leads from land to the lighthouse it sounded like I was at a baseball game as several Baltimore Orioles gave off their exuberant calls. And then overhead I spied a large flock of small geese, silent in their journey north. Brant. Brant are a small goose that nests in the arctic. These birds had come a distance, anywhere from Georgia to the New Jersey coastline, and had a long distance in front of them.

There were about fifty Brant in that first flock. But just minutes behind them was another flock, their messy V shape dotting the blue sky. Over 250 birds had gathered for their annual pilgrimage. I walked back to my boat, pushed off and cruised south with the outgoing tide. I needed to make a full sweep of my reach, down to Magdalen Island, with a quick dip into the North Tivoli Bay.

As I paddled south, one flock of brant after another crossed overhead ranging in size from eight, cruising low to the water, to flocks of several hundred, higher in the sky. I wondered if they used the river to navigate, to find their way from Georgia to the far north.

A fisherman idled in the river in a flat bottomed boat. As I neared I saw his line tighten. I watched as he pulled up, the rod arcing with the strain. Then he lowered his rod, reeling in the line. Pull, reel, pull, reel. It took a good ten minutes to get the fish up. And as soon as it was in his boat, he had it unhooked and had dropped it back in the water. I watched the fish—a good foot and a half long—as the fisherman slid it into the water.

At Magdalen Island I crossed back to the eastern shore of the river. Cutting in close to the island, I smelled a rich mixture of earth and honeysuckle. The fluky waters at the southern end of the island tossed me about as I rounded the island to dip into the North Tivoli Bay. An osprey swooped overhead and perched on the north end of the island. Just a dozen yards from the big raptor perched three great blue heron, perhaps settling into the trees for the night.

The water pushed me under the railroad trestle and into the bay. The late evening light added a glow to the quiet bay where the cattails and phragmites have yet to start their spring growth. The bay looked barren, but the bird calls let me know that life was alive and well. From the stubby reeds of last year I heard swamp sparrows, marsh wrens, and the ever-present red-winged black birds. And then from inland  emerged the distinctive tap-tapping call of the Virginia Rail. From the other side the rail was serenaded by another rail, cack-cacking in response. Grinning, I turned back to the big river, wanting to get back to Tivoli before nightfall as I had forgotten my light.

As I approached the underpass I saw that the water was running faster than usual; the rain swollen river was making the outgoing tide more vigorous. I tightened my life vest, felt happy my binoculars are waterproof, made sure the toggle on my sprayskirt was easily accessible. If I went over, I would tug on it, and drop out of my boat. In other words, I headed for the underpass expecting to go over. I’m not sure why I expected the worst, since in ten years of paddling the Hudson I have yet to dump out of my boat. But the waters felt tricky.

I took a running start, picking up speed as I headed toward the steel girders that support the trains that rush by overhead. I aimed for the southern end of the underpass, knowing the water would push me north. Fueled with adrenalin, I shoveled the water. Then I had to bend over to pass under the girders. This gave me less leverage. Not so slowly, I was being pushed toward the cement supporting wall. I adjusted my boat, paddled, adjusted and finally slammed into the cement wall. I waited for the water to suck me under but instead, I held the wall as the water rushed past. I pushed off from the wall and gave the last ten feet my best effort. When the nose of my boat emerged from under the bridge, the waters instantly calmed. I stroked a few feet toward Magdalen Island, sat back in my seat and breathed deeply.  I did not go over, I felt lucky.

The herons sat placid in their trees, unaware of my adrenalin-inducing moment exiting the North Bay. The sun dipped behind the Catskill Mountains adding a glow to the sky. Two more flocks of brant cruised silently overhead. The sun set--another gorgeous sunset--over the Catskill Mountains.

Two young men were standing at the landing when I pulled up. One helped me put my boat on my car. They were graduating Bard College students, one a dancer, the other a history major. I told the dancer he shouldn’t smoke as he puffed on a cigarette. “I’ve been smoking longer than I’ve been dancing,” he said with a smile. I wanted to tell him he should have taken a course in basic logic.

They asked what I had seen. Many wonderful things. “Brant,” I told them. “Sixteen flocks.” I wasn’t convinced they were interested, but I had to tell them of the brant’s remarkable journey north.

“What’s that?” the dancer asked pointing across the river.

More brant. Seventeen flocks of the arctic-bound geese.

Spring Cleaning

Spring cleaning is an urge that runs deep: some people clean the blinds, wash the floor, throw out clothes. Some dig weeds, rake winter debris in the garden, and some, like me, want to clean the earth. April 30 & 31 was officially garbage weekend.

Lucky for me, the town of Red Hook holds an annual clean up day. On Saturday, fifty people took to the local roads with gloves and large black plastic bags to collect bottles and whatever else people enjoy tossing by the side of the road. Through the winter, all of this debris is hidden. When the snow melts, all of our carelessness is revealed. 

My road to clean was Sengstack Lane, at the north end of my home in the village Tivoli. I cleaned this section of road last year and ended up with two tires and six bags of junk. This year, I only needed but two bags. Is it possible that less litter was left behind? Or was it simply that last year’s effort took in several years of debris? (This clean up has been in place since 2009 so this is possible.)

Sengstack is part of my morning walk. When I reach this stretch of road, the sky opens up with a large, empty horse farm to the north and the Catskills on the western horizon. A harrier often works the field, and I watch him as he cruises just above the tall grass line scanning for prey. On this day I was serenaded by a flicker’s call, a field sparrow in the phragmites patch, and an insistent cardinal. I wore a wide-brimmed hat in the afternoon sun, and carried my garbage pick up stick to reach into the bushes, grab bottles and cans.

Picking up garbage can be a social event, or when alone, deeply meditative. It was quiet along the road; a few cyclist out for a ride in the warm spring air waved as they passed. Other than that it was me, my bag of garbage (that started to stink), and the wide sky. I thought of nothing and everything. I solved no world problems or personal problems. I just enjoyed the small but real satisfaction of making these few miles of road tidy.

The next day, one of my students in my nature writing class at Bard College, Gleb Mikhalev organized a few students to clean up the Tivoli Bays.  The Bays are my paddling ground, two wide scoops of shallow water rich in birds and snapping turtles and beavers. The bays are separated from the Hudson River by the train tracks. For each bay, two underpasses allow the water to come and go with the tides, depositing trash but rarely taking it away with the outgoing current. So the bays are often rich in garbage as well.

Cleaning up the bays is something I’ve done for four years and it’s always an event, a great treasure hunt in the high tide line. Six students showed up, looking like they’d tumbled out of bed fifteen minutes earlier. We organized canoes, and all headed off, the students in a line to the south end of the bay. I didn’t see them again for the rest of the day.

In my canoe at the rudder was Max Kenner, a Bard graduate now running our successful prison program. He was the perfect, optimistic companion. As we scooted under the train trestle and onto the wide river, he glowed with the fun of it under a perfect, sunny sky. He reminded me that this was less about garbage and more about being on this beautiful river in the spring.

 In the distance, the Catskills loomed brown from the winter, with a ruff of green at the base. We curved around the end of Cruger Island and followed the choppy water’s north to land at a cove on the north end. This cove is the perfect spot to picnic, or camp (though that is not legal). There’s a log ideal for sitting and eating sandwiches (which we did). Then we picked up two bags of stuff left by campers.

I picked up a pull tab—the tabs that used to seal soda cans. As a kid, I remember hooking my index finger through the tab and pulling it off. I would then slip the tab into the can where it would float around as I drank my soda. This is the sort of thing you think about cleaning up garbage: when was this invented and by whom? (1956 by Mikola Kondakow invented them for bottles and then later in1962, Ermal Cleon Fraze invented the tab with the ring that would come off completely.) And why did we stop using these pull tabs? (in the 80s the stay on tab was invented to REDUCE ROADSIDE GARBAGE! And to reduce injuries—some people swallowed the floating tabs). (All answers are from Wikipedia, of course)

Satisfied with our clean up, we continued north, where we gathered up an enormous Styrofoam block that straddled the canoe, as well as a long metal rod, a cooler and a plastic chair. Once in the Tivoli north bay, we slowed our pace, grabbing a bottle here and there as we discussed life, relationships and how great it was that the swamp sparrow and the marsh wren were singing amidst the noisier red-winged blackbirds.

My former student Aaron Ahlstrom met us at the dock in the north bay and I swapped out companions. Aaron is tall and lanky, a runner now launched into a career in historic preservation. Max departed with the load of garbage we had collected, and Aaron joined me, infusing me with new energy. Spotting garbage—the glint of glass or plastic tucked into the dry stalks of cattails or phragmites—is an art that requires patience and a keen eye.  Finding a hunk of garbage is satisfying, even though I did not want to see that bottle lying in the muck. I felt a surge at each find. This drive—the hunt one of our most essential drives—is often sated with a gun. But binoculars or a garbage pick up stick work just as well.

As we clambered out of the canoe to gather bottles, tromping into mud and into the reeds, I flushed two Virginia rail and one Least Bittern. The birds took off, their secretive lives momentarily disturbed.

 By six in the evening we were back in the tranquil south bay with an impressive load of stuff headed for the Bard College dump (thank you Bard B&G for hauling everything away). I was dirty and tired and completely satisfied. I saw the load of trash collected by the students, their boats already secured.  “It’s your duty to keep American beautiful,” an advertisement from the 70s, echoed in my head. These students are given other environmental messages (drive a Prius! Recycle! Eat local! Despair over global warming!), but for this one long sunny day they were learning this message of local stewardship. They had helped to make what is beautiful that much more lovely. And it brought them all into coves and through reeds, giving them an intimacy with a place that for four years they call home. I called Gleb to see how their day had unfolded. “We had a great time,” he said. A great time gathering garbage. That gives me hope.